Sunday, August 28, 2005

Perth to Alice Springs

14/08/2005
It is sad but we have to leave the hotel (well we don't have to.....), compensating with a really good and "heart smart" breakfast in Subiaco, which we think is the "Italian" suburb of Perth. After having a quick look at King park we cruise down to Fremantle and check out the markets. We are amazed at the number of people in the streets and cafes but we soon realize that’s because it’s the 60th anniversary of WW2. After having spent the day in Fremantle we decide to have dinner at a pizza place and continue our journey towards Bunbury. The plan is to stop at a 24 hour stop area but we never find it and have to drive all the way to Bunbury and park on the street.

15/08/2005
We wake up and the weather is still pretty shitty, windy and rainy. Time for some car maintenance, the steering have been behaving a bit funny since all the corrugation, so we book the car in for a checkup in the afternoon. While we are waiting D decides to do some stuff himself, air and fuel filter. When we are leaving the car park where we are H is worried that we have forgotten something and D start to reverse to go back and check, shouldn't have done that........ Oops, didn't see those poles behind the car........ Luckily the poles are smaller then Brutus so Brutus wins the fight. The rear right hand side of the bumper obviously gets some bumps and scratches but nothing that will stop us from continue the journey. We make a claim on the insurance and it is ok to leave the repairs needed until we get back to Sydney. &%&$&#%$^&*(@@#& D not happy......

Anyway, the checkup on the car showed no problems that D can't fix himself and it didn't cost anything, at least some good news.

We decide that we need to wind down a bit so we drive to Bussleton jetty for a hot cup of coffee in a cozy sofa. Now we feel a bit better and set out to drive down to Margaret River. On the way we jump in to a brewery called Bootleg for some beer tasting. Sadly it is late and they are about to close so we only have time to try two types but they are good so we buy a couple of bottles. We drive on and see a winery that is open a bit longer and of course we jump in for some tasting. When we get out from the winery it is getting dark so we check in to a Big 4 caravan park on the way and make a very nice spaghetti bolognaise for dinner.

16/08/2005
We wake up in the morning and feel a bit cold, it has been raining and hailing all night and the breakfast coffee feels like sent from heaven.

Wine, chocolate, wine, fudge, wine, cheese and wine, the day is just full of gourmet, gourmet, and gourmet. The Margaret River area is plentiful in its offerings of indulgence. The landscape is lush green and shifts between hills, valleys, fields and forests with magic trees. The wineries, chocolate factory, dairy factory and fudge factory is a reflection of the landscape and gives us day well worth remembering.

At the end of the day H is a bit happier then D (well someone has to drive) but that soon changes when we are forced to park the car on the street in Augusta at night as the caravan park we try to get into for some reason doesn't have any people attending it.

17/08/2005
Up with the birds after another night of rain and hail; breakfast and of to see one of the worlds three capes, Cape Leeuwin. Unfortunately we are a bit too early and the outer most tip of the cape is closed (you have to pay to get there), but we get a good view of the light house and the two raging oceans (Indian and Southern Oceans) anyway.

We travel through some beautiful Karri forest and in Pemberton D decides to climb the Gloucester tree. The tree is 61 meter tall with metal spikes inserted in it. Because it has been raining it is a bit slippery to get up but when you finally get there the view is fantastic and it is a pretty cool the way the tree sways with the wind.

Valley of the Giants is next on the agenda. This is where you can go on a board walk amongst the tree tops, which is quite pleasant amongst the massive trees. There are also trees you can walk straight through at the base.

After a day full of trees we travel through Denmark (we thought this was a country in Scandinavia but apparently not) and arrive at early evening in Albany. Dinner is served, steak and bottle of red.

18/08/2005
We check out the surroundings of Albany - a really nice and old town with plenty of historic buildings. We drive out to Frenchman Bay, a stunning stretch of coastline. It's fairly windy so the sea is very rough around the Gap and the Natural Bridge. Several people have died around this area, or committed suicide here, as it's not uncommon for king waves to hit the shore.

Since our car has lost some of its power we decide to have it checked out at an exhaust place. The exhaust guys don't find anything wrong with it so we continue our journey. We stop at a rest area west of Ravensthorpe.

19/08/2005
When we get to Esperance, a little coastal town, we are a bit tired and not too keen to do too much touring but since we are in the area we go for a drive on the Great Ocean Drive. And what a coastline!!! It's really a nice surprise! Great cliffs and even though the sky is very grey the water is clear turqoise. The waves are pretty rough and we can't help thinking of the young man who lost his life in the sea here somewhere a couple of days ago (you probably heard about it on the news).

20/08/2005
We get to Kalgoorlie in the late afternoon. After checking in to a caravan park (with a bitchy receptionist) we have a look at the great pit. It is a surreal sight. The pit has a futuristic kind of feel about it. As you watch the mine from a distance it feels like the trucks are going in slow motion and as it's getting darker the place has an eerie feel about it. Maybe this is what the world will look like in the future?!?

Even though we are far away from the great pit (at the caravan park) you can hear the humming from the machines all night long.

21/08/2005
The day of tours. We start with going to the Mining Hall of Fame. We do gold panning and an underground mine tour. We get to see some impressive historical remains and learn what terrible conditions the miners used to work under. We also find out that women are better truck drivers than men when it comes to caring for the mining equipment. Apparently there more than 50% of the truckrivers in the gold mines are women and they are supposed to save more than half a million bucks for the company in a five-year period just because they are more gentle drivers than men. So you girls out there if you want to earn some money come to Kalgoorlie!!!

In the afternoon we go on a brothel tour. Yes that's right, a brothel tour. Kalgoorlie is famous for its brothels. There used to be heaps of them around but today there are only three left. We go on a tour through Questa Casa, the oldest brothel in Australia. There are only three of us doing the tour so we get a really good look at the brothel and a really good insight into the past and present of prostitution in the gold fields. Brothels are illegal but prostitution is not and the "madam" that we talk to tell us that she is only fined $200 for running a brothel - and she says she's hardly fined at all. The police station is in fact just around the corner and they don't really care about the brothels unless there are drugs involved. According to the "madam" the town has got hardly any sexual assaults and that's thanks to the brothels (she says). Don't know who to believe but it's sure an interesting town!!!

22/08/2005
We start heading south again, then east. We start our drive across the notorious Nullarbor. We drive past a mad cyclist with a Swedish flag. We stop and have a chat to hime. He has been cycling along the coast since April (when he started in Melbourne). We think we are mad for driving far?!?!?!?

We have never seen so much roadkill!!!! And never such straight roads. We spend the night at a rest area in the middle of the longest straight stretch of road in Australia (140 km).

23/08/2005
Drive. Drive. Drive. It's getting tiring driving but at least you can get some interesting scenery when you are driving close to the coast. We see a couple of dingoes wandering around at the Nullarbor Roadhouse. We want to check out some whales at Head Bight but as we get there the viewing area is closed so we soldier on in the dark and camp at a rest area west of Nundroo Roadhouse.
24/08/2005
In Ceduna we check out the tourist information centre (to get some maps etc) and fill up on fuel and food. We have found a great shortcut to Stuart Highway so instead of going through Port Augusta we take a gravel road through Kingoonya and save at least 300 km. The landscape is pretty interesting. Hills. Plenty of salt lakes. We have to step on the brakes for an emu and a couple of sheep. We reach the Stuart Hwy in the early evening and have a sleep at Bon Bon Rest Area.

25/08/2005
Coober Pedy. What a town. There's nothing like it. Where else would you find people living underground (70% actually)? Where else would you find a man like Crocodile Harry, living in a "cave" collecting underwear and photos of breasts? It's an unreal place. Those of you who have seen the Mad Max movies can probably visualise the landscape. Full of old, rusty car wrecks, full of sand hills, full of mad people. It's a bloody windy place and sand is blowing everywhere. No wonder people live underground.

We stay at a great caravan park where they also have a great pizza joint!

26/08/2005
We had planned to go to Uluru and Kata Tjuta etc first but since there's a "motor show" on in Alice Springs we decide to go there first...so we start to drive towards the "big" town in the centre. We are a little tired (we have been driving pretty much in the last week) so we stop and snooze at a rest area on the highway.

27/08/2005
In Alice Springs we first go and have a look at the "Transport Hall of Fame" where the big motor show is on and where trucks of all colours and models are displayed. It's pretty fascinated to see how keen and devoted some men, and women, are to trucks. Later on we have a wander through the main part of town and have a look at countless Aboriginal art stores. As the caravan parks are all full we go to the "overflow" - a paddock at the turf club - and camp for free. Suits us prefectly. We decide to have a party and celebrate that we have been living in the car for three months now. Plenty of wine and beer is consumed!!!

Saturday, August 13, 2005

Broome to Perth

01/08/2005
Driving, driving, driving. A quick stop at Port Headland. Industrial town. Big port. Big salt hills. Long trains. Start heading south towards Karijini National Park. Night stop at a dry creek.


02/08/2005
Karijini National Park is as good as we’ve heard it should be. (Our first day is spent at Dales Gorge.) The gorges and the waterfalls are different from all others we have seen. A deep turquoise water. Amazing cliffs and rocks. Green bushes and trees. The water is freezing but we still take a dip in one of the pools to refresh. Lucky us – there’s a gas barbecue at the camping ground – so we have a feast of steak, potatoes, onion, tomatoes. Yum!

03/08/2005
Off to Weano Gorge and some amazing walks. Narrow cliffs. Pools. We have to do the “spiderwalk” between narrow cliffs above the water to come to one of the rockpools and waterfalls – it’s pretty cool but you have to be careful so you don’t slip. On our way back to the coast we stop at the mining town Tom Price for lunch, some shopping and filling up on fuel. It’s a surprisingly green and good-looking town but we guess it’s because it’s a mining town. We spend the night at a rest area.

04/08/2005
Through Exmouth. A pretty boring looking town - but as you head out of Exmouth and towards the Cape Range National Park the coastal drive is gorgeous. Turquoise water. Big sand dunes. As we enter Cape Range National Park we are lucky to get the last camping spot they’ve got. The spot we get at Kurrajong Camp doesn’t look like much but as you walk over the sand dunes you are in paradise. Beautiful crystal clear water. We spend the afternoon on the beach. Reading. Sunbaking. Swimming (a bit chilly). You can see the reef and walk out to parts of it at low tide. Gorgeous sunset. Whales and dolphins going past in the distance.

05/08/2005
We like it so much here that we decide to stay another day. Relaxing. Reading. Beaching. At sunset we join the camping hosts and the other campers for a drink watching the sunset. Another gorgeous sunset. More whales.

06/08/2005
We wake up to a windy day. Time to hit the road again. We’ve heard Coral Bay is supposed to be nice but are pretty disappointed when we get there. We end up at a dodgy caravan park and compared to the beaches in Cape Range National Park the beaches here doesn’t seem to be as nice. We do our laundry and dishes etc…

07/08/2005
No point in hanging around a place if you don’t particularly like it, is it? Although we are a bit hesitant to head down south as it’s getting colder and colder the further down you get. But what the heck we have to get used to the cold, don’t we. We have a lunch stop at the old jetty at Carnarvon then we continue to Denham where we spend the night in a caravan park. The drive here was pretty nice as the wildflowers were stunning – yellow, purple, pink, red. Green fields. Nice for a change.

08/08/2005
We get up early in the morning so we can watch the dolphins being fed at Monkey Mia at 8am. Tourists line the beach and the jetty to watch the dolphins come close to shore. Funny, beautiful creatures. The caravan park at Monkey Mia is full so we head to nearby Francois Peron National Park. Driving in the national park we see lots of lizards running over the sandy roads. This is a world heritage area so there are plenty of unusual animals around. At Cape Peron we are totally alone on the beach. Nice for a change. The scenery here is spectacular. The rend sand dunes and mountains meet the white sandy beaches and the clear blue water. The water is pretty freezing. We can see dolphins jumping around in the distance. At the lookout at nearby Skipjack Point it’s like looking down into an aquarium. Below us we can see stingrays and dolphins. Amazing!
We camp on the beach at Bottle Bay. Ocean views and sounds falling asleep. Since it's a cold night we climb into the car pretty early.

09/08/2005
Ocean views and sounds waking up. Lunching at Denham, a little town on the water. Driving. Sleeping at a rest area by the Murchison River.

10/08/2005
Too freezing to sit down outside to have breakfast so we drive 130 km to Geraldton and have brekkie there instead. It rains a little - first rain we have seen in months. The landscape is getting greener and greener. Nice! We check into a caravan park in Cervantes and go and check out the Pinnacles at sunset - remarkable limestone pillars!!! It starts to rain heavily at night so we have no other choice but to climb into bed.

11/08/2005
Time to hit the city. We are really looking forward to see Perth and experience a bigger city. Yesterday we booked into a hotel (over the Internet - through wotif - you can get some cheap rates) so we are really excited to see what the hotel is like and really excited to sleep inside, in a real bed for the first time in a couple of months. We stroll the streets of the inner-city, before checking into the hotel, and we visit a foodcourt for the first time in ages. We feel very civilised. The hotel turns out to be great. It's so great to be able to spread out and have some space! It's so comfortable to have a shower and toilet nearby!!! We stroll the streets in Northbridge, where our hotel is, and find a nice Italian restaurant. Wine. Pizza. "Please don't disturb."

12/08/2005
Walking around the city. Doing some shopping. New books. Daniel is looking for a new digital camera and as we are talking to a salesman at JB Hifi about our bad luck with walking into the water with the last camera - and showing him the camera, how it's broken and so on - the camera miracolously starts working. The screen is working perfectlt. We crack up laughing and can't believe that the camera is working!!! Wow, how cool is that. Maybe we are having some luck again! Lucky we saw it before we bought another camera. Daniel feels $600 richer. We start snapping away immediately! See how happy we are!!! We check out a LEGO exhibiton at MYER and feel like kids.


We go and book a trip back to Sweden (in November) and then we go and have coffee and some traditional Swedish pastries and cakes at Miss Maud, a Swedish pastry place. Yum! Even though it's very windy and rainy we are very happy!

13/08/2005
We like the comfort of the hotel so much so we decide to stay another night. We stroll around the streets of Perth and have some really nice Vietnamese soup for lunch (perfect food for a rainy day). On the way back to the hotel we pick up a bottle of red wine and lots of chocolate. Cozy night at the hotel with wine chocolate and the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy.